There used to be a handy tapas place on Dyke Road that I visited whenever I had a hankering for deep fried cod balls and a glass of Albarino. Not any more though. Dalis has been replaced by Blenio Bistro and though we've lost a Spanish haven, it's OK, we've gained a proper neighbourhood restaurant. A through-the-day menu offers breakfast for those with the time and afternoon light bites for later wakers. The evening crowd get treated best though. A grown-up menu goes just beyond bistro classicism without getting too funky. Most importantly, the cooking is spot on. Starters are fresh and interesting without stealing the show and mains were good honest plates of fine ingredients treated with care and repect. On each visit I've chosen the most difficult dish to get right in the kitchen and it's come out perfect every time. There's something just so pleasing about being given a fish or bird or steak that's cooked exactly right.
This is not a superstar of gastronomy, better than that, it gives us what we want. Perfectly placed between Seven Dials restaurant at the higher end and Tin Drum next door, Blenio is just what the locals need, even if they don't kow it yet. Trust me they will find out.
[ed] as long as they don't go on Monday or Tuesday, it's shut